Kathmandu traffic has a reputation, and we will be honest with you: some of it is deserved. The streets are busy, the driving style takes some getting used to, and Google Maps travel times are more of a suggestion than a promise. But once you understand how the city works, getting around is easy, cheap, and often part of the fun.
We put this guide together because transport is the number one topic our guests ask about at check-in. Here is everything we tell them, written down in one place.
In This Guide
1. Arriving at the Airport
Tribhuvan International Airport is about 9 km from House of Forrest, and the drive takes 30 to 45 minutes depending on traffic. After a long flight, the last thing you want is to negotiate with taxi drivers in the arrivals chaos, so we offer an airport shuttle for just $7 per trip. Send us your flight details when you book and your driver will be waiting with your name on a sign.
If you prefer to arrange your own ride, there is an official prepaid taxi counter inside the terminal. Expect to pay around 800 to 1000 Nepali rupees to most parts of the city. Skip the freelance drivers who approach you in the parking area, as their opening prices are usually double what the ride is worth.
2. Taxis: The Classic Way
The little white or black taxis you see everywhere are the workhorses of Kathmandu. They are small Suzuki hatchbacks, they are everywhere, and they will take you anywhere in the valley for a few dollars.
One important thing to know: although taxis have meters, drivers rarely use them for tourists. The normal practice is to agree on the price before you get in. Ask your host what a fair price is for where you are going, then negotiate with a smile. A typical ride from Nagarjun to Thamel costs around 300 to 500 rupees, which is about $2 to $4. If the first driver quotes something wild, just wave and wait for the next one. There is always a next one.
At night prices go up by roughly 50 percent, which is normal and fair. And if a driver is honest and pleasant, a small tip is always appreciated.
3. Ride-Hailing Apps: Pathao, inDrive, and Yango
This is our top recommendation for most guests. Kathmandu has excellent ride-hailing apps, and they remove all the guesswork from getting around. The three main ones are Pathao, inDrive, and Yango. They all work much like Uber: you set your pickup and destination, you see the price up front, and you pay in cash at the end of the ride. With inDrive you can even propose your own fare and drivers accept or counter it, while Yango tends to have clean cars and reliable pricing for airport runs and longer trips.
Pathao also offers motorbike rides, which cost about half the price of a car and slice through traffic jams like they are not there. If you are travelling light and feeling a little adventurous, riding pillion through Kathmandu is an experience in itself. Helmets are provided.
Download the apps before you arrive or when you connect to our WiFi. You will need a local SIM card with data for them to work on the move, and you can pick one up at the airport or in Thamel for a few dollars. Ncell and NTC both work well.
4. Local Buses and Micros
Local buses and the smaller micro vans are how most of Kathmandu commutes. They are extremely cheap, usually 20 to 50 rupees per ride, and they go everywhere. They are also crowded, have no posted timetables, and the routes are learned rather than published. The green Sajha Yatayat electric buses are the most comfortable of the lot, with fixed routes along the main corridors and a conductor who will tell you exactly where to hop off.
We would not recommend them for getting to a specific appointment on time, but if you want a genuine slice of everyday Kathmandu life, hop on one heading toward the city centre and enjoy the ride. The conductor hangs out of the door calling the destination, and you pay him directly. Ask us which buses pass near the house and we will point you to the right stop.
5. Walking in Kathmandu
Nagarjun is one of the best neighbourhoods in Kathmandu for walking. The air is cleaner than the city centre, the streets are quiet, and within 20 minutes on foot you can reach the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park gate, Triten Norbutse Monastery, or the trail up to White Gumba.
In the city centre, walking is the best way to explore areas like Thamel, Ason Bazaar, and Durbar Square, where the streets are narrow and the details are the whole point. A few practical notes: footpaths can be uneven, traffic does not always stop at crossings, and in the dry season the dust can bother sensitive lungs, so some visitors like to carry a light mask for longer city walks. Cross the road with confidence and steady pace, ideally alongside a local, and you will quickly get the rhythm of it.
6. Renting a Scooter or Motorbike
Confident riders can rent scooters or motorbikes in Thamel from around $10 to $15 per day. It gives you total freedom, and places like Kakani or the Chandragiri road become easy spontaneous outings.
Be realistic about this option though. Kathmandu traffic is dense and improvisational, and we only recommend renting if you already ride at home. You will need an international driving permit, a helmet is legally required, and fuel is easy to find. If you are unsure, a Pathao bike ride gives you the same thrill with a local handling the traffic.
7. Mountain Biking from Our Doorstep
We keep mountain bikes at House of Forrest for guests to hire, and in this corner of the valley they are genuinely the best way to get around. Nagarjun sits on the green edge of Kathmandu, so within a few minutes of our gate you are off the main road and onto quiet lanes that climb towards the forest.
The obvious ride is the Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park gate, under ten minutes from our door, where a forest road winds up through the trees to the stupa at Jamacho on the summit. It is a proper climb and the descent is the reward, with the whole city laid out below you. Gentler options run along the lanes towards White Gumba and Triten Norbutse Monastery, or out through the fields on the Balaju side.
A few honest notes. The hills here are steep, so bring a reasonable level of fitness for the longer climbs, and start early to have the cool air and the empty trails to yourself. We would not recommend cycling into the city centre unless you are a confident urban rider, since the traffic in Thamel and along the Ring Road is not forgiving. Ask Dadhi when you check in and he will point you at the route that suits your legs and the time you have.
8. Private Drivers and Day Trips
For day trips outside the city, like Bhaktapur, Nagarkot, Kakani, or a full valley sightseeing loop, hiring a private car with a driver is the most comfortable option. Expect to pay roughly $40 to $60 for a full day depending on the distance, split between however many of you are travelling.
Your host Dadhi can arrange trusted drivers at fair prices, including multi-stop itineraries. Tell us what you want to see and we will sketch the route, suggest timings to beat the crowds, and set everything up for you.
9. What Things Cost
Prices change over time, but as a rough guide our guests currently pay about these amounts. A taxi from House of Forrest to Thamel runs 300 to 500 rupees. Thamel to Durbar Square is around 200 to 300 rupees. A Pathao bike from our neighbourhood into the centre is usually 150 to 250 rupees. The airport taxi counter charges 800 to 1000 rupees, while our shuttle is a flat $7. Local buses cost 20 to 50 rupees almost anywhere. A full day with a private car and driver is $40 to $60.
One dollar is roughly 135 Nepali rupees these days, so even the priciest taxi ride across the valley rarely costs more than a coffee back home.
10. Our Top Tips
Carry small notes. Drivers rarely have change for a 1000 rupee bill, so keep 50s and 100s handy. Agree prices before the ride, always, unless you are using an app. Allow extra time in the late afternoon, when traffic peaks and a 20 minute ride can take 45. Save our location pin on your phone, because "House of Forrest, Nagarjun" is easier to show than to explain. And when in doubt, message us on WhatsApp. We have lived here all our lives, and there is no transport question we have not answered before.
Start From the Right Place
Stay in peaceful Nagarjun with the whole city within easy reach. Apartments from $16 per night, with a $7 airport shuttle to get you here.
Book Your StaySafe travels, and see you in Kathmandu. If you found this useful, have a look at our guide to the 13 must-visit attractions near House of Forrest to start planning where all these taxis and trails will take you. Not sure which part of the city to base yourself in? Our guide to where to stay in Kathmandu compares every neighbourhood.